Chernivtsi is a veritable synthesis of European styles. Its crowning glory, the Chernivtsi University (once the Residence of Bukovinian Metropolitans) was crafted by Czech architect Josef Hlávka and runs the gamut through the Moorish, Byzantine, Gothic and Romanesque styles. The historical heart of town beats to a Baroque tune, belying the Habsburg and Hungarian influences that once dominated in this western corner of Ukraine. Polish frontispieces also loom, Secessionist façades crowd the Theatre Square, and Orthodox onion-domes poke occasionally in the air, while there’s just a dash of the avant-garde here, too.

Such an artist’s pallet of architecture is a direct result of Chernivtsi’s various past epochs—flowing from Romanian medieval monarchies to Austrian imperialists to Red Army occupations. That also means a daunting array of history to uncover here; so be sure to enlist the help of a Chernivtsi tour guide before heading out to check off the likes of the City Hall, the exhibitions dedicated to Ukrainian diaspora, the Jewish history centre, and the town’s smattering of churches and synagogues. Afterwards, a walk down the pedestrianised Olha Kobylyahska street reveals cafes serving hearty Ukrainian-cum-Moldovan fare: a medley of meatballs and bubbling borscht washed down with strapping shots of vodka!