Set deep between the pistachio farms of South-Eastern Anatolia, Gaziantep’s minarets and arabesque bazaars, shimmering new builds (courtesy of a recent regeneration project in the centre) and crumbling Ottoman bulwarks beckon visitors of all kinds. Baklava is one of the main treats, with countless sweet-smelling emporiums touting this Eurasian dessert between the buzzing marketplaces of the city’s historic heart. And what an historic heart it is! Crowned by the dominating relief of the Ravanda citadel and encircled by the lush greenery of the Atatürk Culture Park (the largest in Turkey), it’s a place where Hittite history coalesces with Islamic charm. Then there’s the striking Gaziantep Museum of Archaeology, with its wealth of Persian jewellery and Roman relics; overshadowed only by the great Zeugma Mosaic Museum, where Gaziantep tourist guides reveal over 1,700 meters squared of ceramic artworks dating from the times when Alexander the Great conquered his way through this section of Asia Minor.