Hem Raj Bastola

I would like to loudly and clearly join the chorus of other reviewers who have been lucky enough to trek with Hem. 

Our visit to Nepal was initially just a stop between a trip to India and my goal of visiting Bhutan. Little did I know it would change my life!   My husband and I are seniors.  David is 65, I am 72 and have had a serious spinal surgery and knee replacement.  While we are active, I was not sure I was trek worthy!  A US State Department advisory, the 2015 earthquake, were of some concern to us in scheduling, , then sadly, there was a fatal plane crash on a route we were booked  to take a week before our arrival.  Hem worked through our itinerary to allow us to have the experience of this magnificent part of the world, avoiding the leg of the trip that would have necessitated the risky flight. My mind at ease, we were ready to hit the trail.

Hem came down from the Annapurna Base Camp two days early to take us on! He met us at the Pokhara airport and off we went.  We had a porter, Rajendra and an excellent driver. It was a fine team!  Hem became our guide, teacher and leader and friend.   He  had a remarkable ability to set a pace I could be successful with.  He planned tea breaks, that were always met with gratitude and great conversations with his wonderful English, wisdom and curiosity on subjects as varied as culture, nature, science, religion, poetry, and life stories-from arranged marriage, to birth and death. He tended every situation in a calm, well organized, and professional way.Hem is culturally Hindu, humble and models mutual respect. Once when I saw 4 ants marching up his shoulder towards his collar, I stepped up to flick them off his shirt.  “Please Madame, Leave them.  They will find their way!”  He stretched to try to find us double beds (when possible) with bathrooms in tea houses along the way. On the multiple occasions  that I felt overcome by the sheer beauty of the Himalayas and the forests of blossoming rhododendron and gratitude for the opportunity to have this experience, and would tear up, Hem would look at me and say, “Thank you , Madame for appreciating have my country!”   One day, Hem noticed my husband picking up candy wrappers on the trail (as we would do in the mountains here at home).  He immediately followed suit and not only picked up volumes of snack and drink containers, but taught Nepalese along the way through quiet modeling.  He even had the children joining in!

Meeting this curious, bright, fit, wise, funny  old soul was a highlight of not just our trip to Nepal but really of our lives. What started out as but a hyphen for me between India and Bhutan became a  high point.