4-Day Nevado Tocllaraju Expedition From Huaraz

Cordillera Blanca

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Highlights

Climb Tocllaraju, standing at 6,034 meters, part of the breathtaking Cordillera Blanca range

Experience glacier travel, ice climbing, and technical routes amidst stunning Andean vistas

Trek through the picturesque Ishinca Valley and marvel at the views of Quebrada Ishinca

Encounter a variety of spectacular peaks including Urus and Ishinca

Enjoy camping under the stars near glacial campsites

Huaraz

nature, trekking, photography

Group Tour

4 Days

Medium

English, Spanish

Description

Explore the natural beauty of the Cordillera Blanca, the highest tropical mountain range globally. Discover over 50 peaks exceeding 15,000 feet, 700 glaciers, and 300 picturesque lakes. Nevado Tocllaraju, at 6,034 meters, offers a classic climb with routes requiring technical skill. Even if the summit is missed, the incredible views of peaks like Ranrapalca, the Palcarajus, and more make the journey worthwhile. This adventure provides a challenging and rewarding experience for seasoned mountaineers. Traverse stunning terrains with fascinating vistas, ensuring a memorable expedition.

Itinerary

Day 1: Huaraz - Transfer to Pashpa (3,400 m) - Trekking to Ishinca Base Camp (4,250 m)
- Transfer to Pashpa: The journey begins with a transfer from Huaraz to Paltay in the Santa Valley. From here, you'll continue by private vehicle to Pashpa (3,400 m).
- Trek to Ishinca Base Camp: After arriving in Pashpa, you begin a steady, scenic trek through the Ishinca Valley, passing through Cochapampa Lake. This peaceful ascent takes about 4-5 hours.
- Highlights: Enjoy the beautiful surroundings of the Ishinca Valley and get ready for the higher-altitude conditions. The camp is located near Refugio Don Bosco.
- Accommodation: Overnight at Ishinca Base Camp (4,250 m).
Day 2: Ishinca Base Camp - Ascend to Tocllaraju Moraine Camp (4,950 m)
- Moraine Ascent: After breakfast, you’ll head to the Tocllaraju Moraine Camp. The climb will be steep, but rewarding, as you reach the edge of the Tocllaraju Glacier.
- Hiking Time: About 4-5 hours.
- Views: On the way, you’ll get an incredible first look at Tocllaraju, which towers at 6,034 m.
- Accommodation: Set up camp at the Moraine Camp, a strategic base close to the glacier.
Day 3: Moraine Camp - Summit Tocllaraju (6,034 m) - Return to Ishinca Base Camp
- Summit Day: Start very early (around 2-3 am) for the challenging summit attempt.
- Route: You'll ascend over the glacier and proceed up the northwest ridge of Tocllaraju. The technical difficulty varies, but you will likely face steep ice sections, up to 75° in places. The final summit ridge will be secured with fixed ropes.
- Summit Views: Once at the top, the panoramic views are breathtaking, offering an unmatched perspective of the Cordillera Blanca.
- Descent: After the summit, you will descend back to Moraine Camp, then continue back down to Ishinca Base Camp. This will be a 10-12 hour day, requiring stamina and focus.
- Accommodation: Overnight at Ishinca Base Camp.
Day 4: Ishinca Base Camp - Trek to Cochapampa Lake (3,400 m) - Return to Huaraz
- Descent: After breakfast, begin your descent from Ishinca Base Camp back to Pashpa.
- You’ll walk through a beautiful hillside dotted with Queñual trees (Polylepis spp.), native to the high Andes.
- Return to Huaraz: Upon arrival in Pashpa, take the transport back to Huaraz, where you will likely arrive around midday and have lunch.
- Accommodation: Return to your hotel in Huaraz.

What's Included

Peruvian qualified and experienced local guide/s

All meals during the tour

Camping tents (2 persons)

Porters Nevado Tocllaraju (2 pax 1 porter)

Kitchen equipment

Cook

Donkey driver and donkeys

Transportation as tour schedule / Huaraz

What's Excluded

International flights to Lima / Peru round trip

Transfer from the airport for bookings of individual flights with different times of arrival / departure

Exit tax at the airport in Lima

Travel accident and health insurance

Luggage insurance and trip cancellation

Meals in restaurants in Lima and Huaraz

Personal expenses

Acclimatization Tour

Entrance fees to the Huascaran National Park

Transfer from the Hotel to the airport and bus station

Domestic flight Airline ticket LC-Peru

Hotel Casa Andina 2 nights in Lima

Hotel San Sebastián 4 nights in Huaraz

Pick up at the airport in Lima to the Hote

Personal equipment (such as boots, ice ax, crampons, harness, sleeping bag, mat, Goretex, etc.)

Tips

Know Before You Go

Climbing Tocllaraju (6,034 meters) is a technical and challenging mountaineering expedition, set in the stunning Cordillera Blanca of Peru. This 4-day climb requires solid mountaineering skills, high-altitude acclimatization, and the right gear. Here’s everything you need to know before embarking on this incredible journey.

1. Physical Fitness & Experience:

Fitness Level: This climb is for experienced mountaineers who are comfortable with technical glacier climbing, high-altitude hiking, and extended periods of exertion at altitudes above 4,000 meters.

Required Skills: You must have experience in glacier travel, using crampons, and ice axe techniques. Prior experience on similar peaks or technical routes is essential.

Acclimatization: High-altitude acclimatization is crucial. Plan to arrive in Huaraz at least 2-3 days before the climb to acclimate to the altitude (3,000 meters in Huaraz). Trekking to nearby peaks such as Nevado Vallunaraju or Nevado Pisco is also recommended to improve acclimatization before attempting Tocllaraju.

2. Route Overview:

Day 1: Transport from Huaraz to Pashpa (3,400 m), then a 4-5 hour trek to Ishinca Base Camp (4,250 m).

Day 2: Ascend to Tocllaraju Moraine Camp (4,950 m) via a steep moraine (4-5 hours).

Day 3: Summit day! Ascend to Tocllaraju Peak (6,034 m) via a technical glacier route. The climb involves ice walls and a 60-75° slope (up to 12 hours of ascent and descent).

Day 4: Descend from Ishinca Base Camp to Pashpa, and return to Huaraz.

3. Altitude & Acclimatization:

Altitude: The highest point on this climb is 6,034 meters (Tocllaraju summit). The climb starts at Ishinca Base Camp (4,250 meters) and goes up to Moraine Camp (4,950 meters).

Altitude Sickness: Be mindful of altitude sickness symptoms (headache, nausea, dizziness). If you feel unwell, descend immediately and seek medical help. It is recommended to carry Diamox or other altitude medication (after consulting with a doctor).

Hydration & Rest: Stay hydrated and take regular breaks to help with acclimatization. Rest is essential for your body to adapt to the high altitude.

4. Gear & Equipment:

Mountaineering Gear: This is a technical climb, so make sure you have the right gear, including crampons, ice axe, climbing harness, helmet, carabiners, and prussik cords. Most of this gear can be rented in Huaraz, but ensure it’s in good condition.

Clothing: Due to the cold temperatures at high altitudes, you’ll need proper layers for warmth: base layers, insulating jackets (down or synthetic), waterproof gear, and warm gloves.

Footwear: Stiff, waterproof mountaineering boots are essential for ice and rock climbing. Make sure they are broken in and comfortable for long days on the mountain.

Camping Gear: A good-quality sleeping bag (rated for -10°C), sleeping pad, and tent (if not provided by the guide) are essential for base camp conditions.

Other Essentials: A headlamp (with extra batteries), sunscreen, lip balm, and first aid kit are also recommended.

5. Weather Conditions:

Season: The best time to climb Tocllaraju is between May and September when the weather is drier and more stable. The climbing season is during the dry season to avoid heavy rain or snow, which can make the glaciers more dangerous.

Temperatures: Expect freezing temperatures at night at base camps (down to -10°C or lower). Daytime temperatures can vary but remain cool, especially near the summit.

Summit Day: The weather on summit day can change rapidly, so prepare for possible high winds, snow, and cold temperatures.

6. Safety & Support:

Guides: The climb is recommended with experienced guides who are familiar with the route and conditions. Professional guides are familiar with local weather and glacier conditions, and they know how to manage safety on the mountain.

Rescue Support: It's advisable to climb with a team that has access to mountain rescue services, such as Socorro Andino Peruano, for emergencies. Ensure that your guide is prepared with satellite communication and safety equipment.

7. Physical and Mental Preparation:

Fitness: A high level of physical conditioning is important. Prepare with cardio, strength training, and endurance hiking at higher altitudes.

Mental Focus: The climb can be mentally demanding, with long days and steep terrain. Stay focused, take breaks when necessary, and always listen to your body.

8. Food & Hydration:

Meals: Food will be provided, typically consisting of high-energy meals like pasta, rice, soups, and snacks. Make sure to carry extra snacks (energy bars, nuts, dried fruit) for quick energy during the climb.

Hydration: Carry at least 2-3 liters of water per day. You may need a water filter or purification tablets to refill water bottles from streams or natural sources. Dehydration at high altitudes is common, so drink regularly.

9. Environmental Considerations:

Leave No Trace: Always clean up your trash and follow Leave No Trace principles to preserve the pristine environment of the Cordillera Blanca.

Wildlife: While you might see wildlife like Andean condors and vicuñas, remember to keep your distance and avoid feeding them.

10. Insurance:

Climbing Insurance: Ensure you have mountaineering insurance that covers high-altitude climbs, evacuation, and medical emergencies.

Travel Insurance: It’s also recommended to have travel insurance that covers cancellations, delays, and loss of equipment.

Conclusion:

The Tocllaraju 4-day climb is an exhilarating and demanding mountaineering experience, offering stunning views of the Cordillera Blanca. Proper preparation, gear, and acclimatization are key to a successful summit. If you are an experienced mountaineer, prepared for the challenges, and ready to tackle this iconic peak, Tocllaraju will reward you with an unforgettable adventure.

What To Bring

What to Bring for Tocllaraju 4-Day Climb

Climbing Tocllaraju (6,034 m) is a technical and challenging mountaineering adventure, requiring proper gear and preparation. Below is a comprehensive list of items to bring for the 4-day climb:

General Clothing & Personal Items:

1.Base Layers:

2-3 sets of moisture-wicking long underwear (top & bottom).

Fleece or synthetic mid-layer for warmth.

2.Insulating Layers:

Down jacket or synthetic insulated jacket for warmth.

Fleece or insulated vest (optional).

3.Outer Layers:

Waterproof and windproof jacket (Gore-Tex or similar).

Waterproof pants for glacier conditions.

4.Trekking Clothing:

Lightweight trekking pants.

Hiking shirts (long sleeve for sun protection).

Hat (for sun protection) and buff or bandana.

5.Gloves:

1 pair of lightweight gloves for hiking.

1 pair of insulated gloves for summit day.

1 pair of waterproof gloves for glacier travel.

6.Headwear:

Sun hat or cap for the trek.

Warm hat for cold nights and summit day.

Balaclava or face mask for wind protection (summit day).

7.Footwear:

Mountaineering boots (stiff, waterproof boots for crampon use).

Lightweight trekking shoes for approach and descent.

3-4 pairs of warm socks (wool or synthetic).

Gaiters (to protect against snow, ice, and rocks).

8.Sunglasses:

High-quality sunglasses with UV protection for bright sun and snow conditions.

Glacier glasses (for summit day if needed).

9.Personal Items:

Sunscreen (SPF 30+).

Lip balm with sun protection.

Personal hygiene items (toothbrush, toothpaste, wet wipes).

Small, quick-drying towel.

Biodegradable soap (if you plan to wash in natural water sources).

Technical Gear:

1.Climbing Gear (Typically provided by the guide service, but it’s good to confirm in advance):

Crampons (for glacier travel).

Ice axe (standard or technical depending on the route).

Climbing harness (if not provided).

Carabiners and prusik cords (usually included with guides).

Helmet (for glacier climbing).

2.Backpack:

45-55L backpack for trekking to the base camp.

20-30L summit pack for summit day (smaller and lighter).

3.Sleeping Gear:

Sleeping bag (rated for -10°C to -15°C).

Sleeping pad (lightweight and insulating).

Pillow (optional, small and compressible).

Food & Hydration:

1.Water bottles or hydration system (2-3 liters capacity).

Ensure you can carry enough water for long days, especially at high altitudes.

Water purification tablets or filter (if you plan to purify natural water sources).

2.Snacks:

High-energy, easy-to-carry snacks like nuts, dried fruit, energy bars, chocolate.

Gels or electrolyte tablets for rehydration.

Other Essentials:

1.Headlamp (with extra batteries) for early morning departures and summit night.

2.First-aid kit (basic supplies, any personal medication).

3.Multi-tool (small, lightweight).

4.Camera or smartphone (if you want to document your trip).

5.Map or route description (if you're going with a guide, this may be provided).

6.Plastic bags for trash (leave no trace).

Optional Items:

1.Trekking poles (helpful for the approach trek).

2.Lightweight thermos (for hot drinks).

3.Notebook or journal (for writing about your experience).

4.Hand warmers (useful for summit day).

Note:

Acclimatization: Be sure you’re properly acclimatized to the altitude before the climb. If you’re not accustomed to heights, consider arriving in Huaraz a few days before to adjust.

Local Rentals: Some gear, like crampons, ice axes, and boots, can be rented in Huaraz, so you don’t need to bring them if you prefer renting.

Weather Conditions: Temperatures can vary dramatically. Be prepared for cold, snowy, and potentially windy conditions at high altitudes.

Final Tip:

Remember that packing light is key, but don’t skimp on essential gear. Safety and comfort on the climb are paramount, so ensure your equipment is of high quality and in good condition!

Meeting Point

Huaraz, Perú

Cancellation Policy

For cancellations upto 2 days before the tour -

Refund of 80% of the tour price.

Price

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1 to 16	/person
Child
1 to 16	/person
This is a group tour

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4-Day Nevado Tocllaraju Expedition From Huaraz

Highlights

Description

Itinerary

Day 1: Huaraz - Transfer to Pashpa (3,400 m) - Trekking to Ishinca Base Camp (4,250 m)

Day 2: Ishinca Base Camp - Ascend to Tocllaraju Moraine Camp (4,950 m)

Day 3: Moraine Camp - Summit Tocllaraju (6,034 m) - Return to Ishinca Base Camp

Day 4: Ishinca Base Camp - Trek to Cochapampa Lake (3,400 m) - Return to Huaraz

What's Included

What's Excluded

Know Before You Go

What To Bring

Meeting Point

Cancellation Policy

Price

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4-Day Nevado Tocllaraju Expedition From Huaraz

Highlights

Description

Itinerary

Day 1: Huaraz - Transfer to Pashpa (3,400 m) - Trekking to Ishinca Base Camp (4,250 m)

Day 2: Ishinca Base Camp - Ascend to Tocllaraju Moraine Camp (4,950 m)

Day 3: Moraine Camp - Summit Tocllaraju (6,034 m) - Return to Ishinca Base Camp

Day 4: Ishinca Base Camp - Trek to Cochapampa Lake (3,400 m) - Return to Huaraz

What's Included

What's Excluded

Know Before You Go

What To Bring

Meeting Point

Cancellation Policy

Price

Check Availability Hide

Starting from

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Create your own adventure!

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