A thin slither of land cut out of the West African panhandle, Togo tinkers along with its 7.5 million people, all spread out in a multicultural array of ethnic tribes, from the Francophone streets of Lome in the south to the Sahel plains and savannahs around Dapaong in the deep, deep north. Once a favoured jumping off point for slavers setting sail on the Atlantic, the old pens and depots of the coast here have long since given way to building dunes and swaying palm trees. That makes for a tropical vibe around the sands of Aneho, where voodoo followers echo the Caribbean traditions that have rebounded here over the centuries. A little way up, and Kpalime comes peppered with fading church facades, encompassed by swathes of coffee plantations. Go further north and you will find a picture of rustic, rural Africa untouched. Wild, wild Kara is far-flung and fascinating with its mud-built homes and straw huts; the finest examples of these come with the UNESCO site of Koutammakou – a must see! Togo tour guides also beckon visitors with elephant herds in Fazao Mafakassa, Parisian-style cafes in Lome and intrepid trekking around the Tamberma Valley.