Serbia remains an enclave of off-the-beaten-track travel in Europe; a place still wondrous to behold precisely because of its obscurity in the heart of the Balkans. But once in, travellers are rarely disappointed, with most wowed into submission by the country’s lingering wealth of Orthodox architecture and formidable hilltop fortresses, not to mention its visceral story of war and counter-war, still fresh on the lips of many a local. Ask any Serbia tourist guide and they’ll tell you to start in Belgrade. This is where the country’s stand for modernisation and liberalisation is being made, where all the best sights, the mighty Kalemegdan fortress and the pious Cathedral of Saint Sava are to be found. It’s also the kingpin of Serbian nightlife and hedonism (sorry students and EXIT-goers from Novi Sad!). But let’s not forget Serbia’s wild and earthy side either, ranging from the high cliffs and rugged hills of the great Tara National Park in the west, to the hilltop castles and fir-shrouded cathedrals of mysterious Manasija in the east.