Around 100,000 people now live, work and play in Suceava, making it the second largest city in Romania’s easternmost Principality of Moldavia. Geographically the town is nestled between the soaring rises of the Eastern Carpathians and the modern border with Moldova the country, a fact that made it an important trading stop-off on the trans-European caravan route between Turkey and the old Polish kingdoms. Consequently, Suceava’s major sights are largely remnants of a medieval boom time, which range from the exquisite 14^th century Mirauti Church, to the UNESCO-attested New Monastery that’s dedicated to the city’s patron, Saint John. Suceava tour guides also recommend exploring the crumbling remnants of the old town fortress, or simply kicking back with some hearty Romanian fare in one of its legendary taverns. Others direct travellers towards the wealth of the heritage painted monasteries of Bucovina that pepper the backcountry around town—the fairy-tale Moldovita Monastery, the ornate Sucevita monastery, and the Dragomirna Monastery amongst others.