Proud and unassuming, Ponce is a world away from the hustle and bustle of Puerto Rico’s northern coast. That’s not to say is hasn’t the Spanish treasures of San Juan, or the Caribbean shore waters of Arecibo—because those it certainly does—just, well, they are different here. It’s as if Ponce is stuck between some sincere longing for the colonial majesty of the old, and a defiant contrariness that is surely the prerogative of the island’s second most popular destination. Consequently, the town cathedral shimmers, whitewashed next to the striking red-and-black Parque de Bombas, and landmarks such as the Art Museum, the Seralles Castle and the Tibes Ceremonial Centre make the city proud. Ponce tour guides are also proud of their city’s walking routes, which extend right through the myriad plazas to the shore, where the La Guancha Paseo Tablado promenade picks up in a medley of waterside drinkeries and some excellent Carib-cum-American bistros. Further afield lie the omnipresent sands of Puerto Rico; secluded at El Tuque, and postcard-perfect at Guanica just a little to the west.