Stuck fast between two great pitons of rock that emerge from the turquoise waters of the South China Sea, the postcard-perfect island of El Nido is the famed gateway to the alabaster-white beaches of Palawan. Something of a tin-shack town of low-rise cottages and islander cabanas, there’s a real tropical vibe here. However, as any El Nido tour guide will be quick to note, it’s away from the dusty streets and bobbing boat jetties of the centre that the island’s real charms lurk. Small and big lagoons and secret coves carve their way into the karsts of the Bacuit Archipelago all around, while forget-me-not beaches curve into the verdant lands of Cadlao Island. Meanwhile, adrenaline junkies head for the hills with their mountain bikes, and rock climbers don the ropes for the faces that tower over El Nido itself. Of course diving, snorkelling, kayaking and fishing are also all part and parcel here; in a place where corals colour the waters and endless inlets cluster along the bays.