It's not only the snaking courses of the Bagmati that separate Patan from the northern half of Kathmandu. It's also the architecture, and the history. The two places are just as stone's throw from each other – Patan tour guides are often based in Kathmandu proper, and just come across the river for day-long excursions – but there's much less of the frenetic energy and more of the dynastic majesty here. Just take the iconic reaches of Durbar Square, replete with incense-scented temples and pagodas, ancient palaces and bronze statues that still stand tall in the aftermath of the 2015 earthquake. Spend time wandering the centuries-old chowks and courtyards that coalesce on Durbar, from the popular Golden temple with its impressive golden Buddhist façade, to the palace of the Malla kings that unearths stories of the Mahabharata and stone temples dedicated to Lord Krishna. Then, it's on to the folksy handicraft emporiums and bookshops, or even the curious Central Zoo – the only one of its kind in all of Nepal!