Despite the city’s concrete shell Ulan Bator is a hive of cultural interest, and a much-loved national icon in the minds of local Mongols. Visitors here will have to read between the lines to discover the ever-present charm and trademark hospitality of the inhabitants, while the industrial modernity that’s come to dominate has enacted something of an urban energy in recent years, with international cuisine, nightlife hotspots and shopping centres opening up en masse.
The downtown may seem like an unceasing pandemonium of moving traffic; however it’s easy to discover pockets of calm in Ulan Bator. Head for the Gandan Monastery, or Choijin Lama Museum, both magnificent architectural images of oriental grandeur, laden with rich arrays of Mongolian cultural treasures and art.
If  visiting in July, be sure not to miss the Mongolian national festival of Naadam, which takes place in the capital’s sports stadium. It’s a great chance to see all of Mongolia’s three traditional national sports in action: Horse racing; archery and wrestling.
Ulan Bator may not be the most attractive Asian metropolis, but who needs elaborate façades and pretty buildings when you have a character so rich, diverse and overwhelmingly hospitable as this!