This fascinating metropolis found poking its way out into the extreme east of the Mediterranean Sea has been moulded and shaped over more than five millennia by the seafaring Greeks, Imperial Romans, Arabic caliphates, invading Ottomans and tumultuous religious divisions alike, making it unquestionably one of the most enthralling cities in the Middle East.

Visitors are invited to wander between the old Christian district of Ashrafieh and the stylish downtown area, weaving between the Greek Orthodox Cathedral of Saint George, the pearly blue dome of the Mohammad Al-Amin Mosque and the bustling arabesque souks, before settling for espressos in the Parisian cafés of Nejmeh Square. Others will head straight for the dramatic viewing spots of the Pigeon Rocks, or the breath taking caverns of Jeita Grotto via the cable cars north of town.

But, as any Beirut tourist guide will tell you, this town is the picture of a place in the throes of a great transformation, moving somewhere between the chic banking capital it was in the first half of the 20^th century and a tense theatre for ideological confrontation. That makes for a stark dichotomy of character, with sprawling slums abutting trendy cocktail bars and fashionista beach clubs, and earthy Palestinian eateries rubbing shoulders with French fine dining to boot.