From the heights of the Šar Mountains that loom on all sides, Prizren is a sea of red-tiled roofs, divided only by the pebbly streams of the Bistrica River and spiked with the occasional needle-like minaret and its concomitant mosque dome. Steeped in the histories of millennia, this stone-clad city exudes a fascinating backstory from each of its crumbling facades and facets. Tales of the Serbian Kingdoms lurk in the UNESCO-attested cloisters of the Lady of Ljevis Monastery, Ottoman vibes make their way around the cobbled squares of Shadervan, Balkan prowess emanates from the bulwarks of the great fortress on the hill, and old Turkic hammams serve as exhibition centres today amidst the wealth of Orthodox churches. But it’s not all history here, and Prizren tour guides are also quick to highlight their city’s vibrant gastronomic edge, bubbling up in the al fresco bars and restaurants on the riverside and Shadervan, where Shar cheese and grilled meats are washed down with local brews of Peja beer and wine from the wineries at Rahovec. And let’s not forget that glorious backcountry, revealing the ski pistes of Brezovia and scenic vistas of the Dragash surrounds nearby.