This historic enclave of Arabic life on the fringes of booming Tel Aviv rises from the cusp of the Mediterranean Sea in a dusty show of old adobe port buildings, pretty, palm-peppered streets and sun-kissed stone squares. Concealed between its tight-knit lanes lies a veritable wealth of cultural hotspots, and earthy local craft boutiques, all set to the billowing smoke clouds of shisha pipes and the woody aromas of freshly-mixed hummus mezze.

It’s a good idea to start by casing out the old town from a distance, checking its magnificent profile from the Tel Aviv Promenade to the north. Then, dive into the centre and weave between the artsy Zodiac alleyways, complete with their hidden arabesque architecture and wealth of regional trinketry. Afterwards, follow the route Napoleon is reported to have taken in 1799—up the steps of Kikar Kedumim to the grand tower of St Peter's Church. Perhaps there will be time to quiz your Jaffa tourist guide on shopping tips at the bustling souk Hapishpeshim, or take a break over a meal of shakshuka (eggs poached in tomato sauce and vegetables).