Sloping down from the flat-topped plateaus where the Silk Road once crossed from Asia to Europe, and the Assyrian Empire once ruled the passes, Sanandaj is today the hub of Iran's Kurdistan region. It's between the town’s Qeshlaq bridge, the 17^th century bazaar and old historic mansions, that it's possible to feel its history through the ages. The town of today sees traditional qalyan (hookah) teahouses thrum with friendly locals in Kurdish baggy trousers, while the scents of coffee beans and mint fill the air, and the call to prayer adds a mysticism to the city throughout the day. While exploring the town center properly is a must, many a Sanandaj tour guide will also recommend breaking out to the surrounding Abidar mountains, where the the waters of Zarivar Lake and Marivan beckon, and the rustic courtyard houses of photogenic Palangan village await the camera lens.