Itinerary

1. Day 1: Drive from Kathmandu to Machhekhola (869m, 7-8 hrs)

   • We head out from Kathmandu for the long drive to Machekhola, driving through Arughat along the way on the dusty road. Our companion and guide through the Manaslu Valley, whose source we'll eventually touch on when we ascend to the pass of Larkya La. Machha Khola (the name means 'fish river') has pleasant views of the surrounding jungle and occasional waterfalls, adding their own soothing sound bite to the hike.

2. Day 2: Machhakhola to Jagat (1340m, 7 hrs)

   • In the early part of the day, we ease through Khorlabesi and make our way to Tatopani, famed for its natural hot springs. A steep climb takes us up to Dobhan as we enter the Manaslu Conservation area and on to the scenic village of Jagat, with its rugged setting and narrow paved lanes.

3. Day 3: Jagat to Deng (1860m, 7 hrs)

   • Our day begins by walking through subtropical rainforest and a series of small hamlets, traversing a couple of suspension bridges along the way. The last of these leads us into the village of Philim and its beautiful setting amidst terraced fields overlooking the river. 
   • Further along the trail, we arrive at the junction for Tsum Valley and Larkye La and take the path heading northwest towards Deng.

4. Day 4: Deng to Namrung (2630m, 7 hrs)

   • The first real views of the major mountains come into view, with Sringi Himal, Ganesh Himal, Kutang Himal and other peaks making their presence known as we make our way up the valley. Lush vegetation greets us as we hit the trail and head west through more quaint villages like Prok and their scenic outlooks, then on and up the last steep stretch that ushers us into Namrung.

5. Day 5: Namrung to Lho. (3180m, 4 hrs)

   • Today, we hit the jackpot for spectacular views of the mountains as the valley opens up with our approach to the scenic village of Lho. The lower temperate forests give way steadily as the trail breaks free of the tree line and climbs higher into the mountains, the lush greens of the lower valley giving way to the muted browns and greys of the Himalayan terrain and the vivid blue skies one only experiences at altitude. 
   • After our half-day hike to Lho, there's plenty of time left to fully explore Manaslu's gorgeous views and visit Rebung Gompa, perched atop a hillside nearby.

6. Day 6: Lho to Sama (3520m, 3 hrs).

   • From Lho, we hike to the equally impressive village of Shyala, which offers spectacular vistas of Manaslu, Himal Chuli, Nadi, Naike, Kutang Himal, and Pangbuche Himal. 
   • We then climb steadily through yak pasturelands to Sama Gaun. With plenty of time left over from the day, there's ample opportunity to make the short hike to Birendra Lake.

7. Day 7: Acclimatization day. Hike to either Birendra Lake/Manaslu Base camp or Pungen Gumpa.

   • Sama Gaun is our temporary home for the day as we give our bodies time to acclimate to the altitude. The choice is a fine one as the village provides multiple options for day excursions, including a short hike to the pretty lake of Birendra Taal nearby, the highly rewarding and dramatic hike to Manaslu Base camp, or the alternative walk to Pungen Gompa and its serene setting amidst the mountains.

8. Day 8: Sama to Samdo (3860m, 3 hrs)

   • Onward and upward is the motto of the day as we put our heads down determinedly, with the goal of Larke La ever nearer. The trail leads us on a short and gradual climb alongside the river, then begins to steepen as it leads us up to Samdo around midday. There is plenty of time in the afternoon to explore and perhaps hike to a higher altitude briefly to help acclimate.

9. Day 9: Acclimatization day. Hike to Tibetan border at Rui La (4998m) and return to Samdo (8 hrs)

   • Another rest day to help acclimate, with the rare option of spending the day hiking to the border with Tibet at the pass of Rui La (4998m). The views of the Himalayas and Fukang Glacier add another level to the day's journey.

10. Day 10: Samdo to Dharmasala(4460m, 5 hrs)

    • Our trek to the high-altitude camp of Dharmsala brings us to the very threshold of Larke La, with snow more evident and the air feeling thinner with each step towards our destination. Another brief hike to higher ground is recommended to help our bodies get used to the altitude and sleep better at night.

11. Day 11: Dharmasala to Larke La 5160m then descends to Bhimthang overnight (3590, 8 hrs).

    • The typical method for crossing Larkya La is to head out before daybreak, our head-mounted lights bobbing in the dark as we clamber up the path in the cold morning air, our breath apparent in the glow of the lamps. The trail to Larke La is a deceptive one of constant switchbacks, promising everything one minute and snatching it away the next as one false ridge leads to another. 
    • Finally, we catch a glimpse of the first prayer flags, and our goal is finally attained as we stumble wearily to the marker and pose proudly for our cameras to mark the achievement. 
    • After pausing to luxuriate in the accomplishment and take in the magnificent views, we descend to Bhimthang and use our trekking poles to spare our tired legs and knees from the steep descent to the arid valley below.

12. Day 12: Bhimthang to Dharapani (1960m, 7/8 hrs).

    • With views of Manaslu to our left and the Annapurna ranges to our right, we descend from Bhimthang through yak pastures to the first signs of the Dudh Khola's headwaters trickling down the slope. A bridge across leads to a path which gradually leaves behind the alpine climate and takes us down through familiar rhododendron forests to a narrow valley of terraced fields and patchwork crops. 
    • We reach the small and picturesque village of Tilje and then make our way uphill to Dharapani, the major trekking confluence in the region and modern starting point for trekkers heading out on the Annapurna Circuit and their goal of reaching Thorong La pass. With time and intent, we can head in the same direction.

13. Day 13: Dharapani to Kathmandu by drive.

    • A long day's driving by local transport to Kathmandu.