In a country where surprises seem to lurk around every turn, you might think that the appearance of ancient Uplistsikhe above the bends of the Mtkvari River would be almost routine. It's anything but. This is surely one of the most enthralling and fascinating historical sites in the Caucuses, a onetime caravanserai that grew rich on trade and eventually proved a stronghold for Georgia's Christian kings during the years of Muslim incursion.

It's the troglodyte architecture and amazing web of tunnels and tight-knit alleys that define the town's Shida Qalaqi inner area, that really make it stand out. They form an intricate web of houses and gathering spots, and, startlingly, represent just a fraction of the city that once kept watch over the Kartli plains. It will certainly help to have a qualified Uplistsikhe tour guide in tow to help you unravel the tales of war, trade, building and conquest that coalesce around the stone-carved citadel.

A visit to nearby Gori can also be tacked on while here. The area is home to the sinewy tops of the Gori Fortress, dating to the 13^th century, and one intriguing museum dedicated to Joseph Stalin.