Wedged into the Greater Caucasus Mountains on the north-east side of Georgia, the vast and altitudinous region of Khevsureti is an adventurer's dream come true. It doesn't get the same headlines as Svaneti, which means you're more likely to find yourself totally alone and secluded in the landscapes here, with grass-covered massifs looming overhead, roaring whitewater rivers running in deep valleys, and pockets of gallery woods without a town or roadway in sight.

The historical home of the Khevsurs, Khevsureti is also steeped in a unique history and culture all of its own. Hardy and traditional mountain people, the natives of this land are welcoming but stern, proud yet hospitable. You will encounter them in the smattering of small, stone-built hamlets that string across the wide Caucasus canyons; places like mystical Shatili where looming towers crown the gorges or Mutso, with its haunting castle on a boulder-speckled summit.

Trekking is probably the main reason to enlist the help of a Khevsureti tour guide. Marked trails weave and wind around the whole region. There's everything from single-day hikes up to the green-blue waters of the Abudelauri Lakes to arduous long-distance journeys that take in the glaciated peaks on the border with Chechnya.