Sat right amid the great sands that rolls out to form the heart of south-western Egypt, the dust-blown town of El Kharga is the sort of place where you can still sense the ghosts of the country’s long-forgotten past. These spectres of historic Arabic caravan routes and the footsteps of iconic Persian kings and pharaohs are best traced at the grand Temple of Hibis. The monolithic shrine dating back to 500 BC displays murals and mystical artworks from its founding age, and is usually top of the menu for any El Kharga tour guide. There are also the haunting Christian tombs in El Bagawat and the impressive roman ruins of Qasr al Dush to see amongst other crumbling sights in the area. Meanwhile, the modern half of El Kharga is now the capital of the New Valley Governate. It buzzes with trade and boasts some good modern infrastructure, all of which is shrouded by the blooming oasis and its swathes of acacia trees.