The last divided capital of Europe is slowly but surely treading the path towards reunification. However, even with the famous passport checks on Ledra Street finally gone, there's no doubt that this Turkish corner of the Cypriot capital will retain its own unique charms and character. Entering by foot from the southern (Greek) side of the city, you will leave behind beer bars and boutique shops and suddenly be immersed in a tight-knit warren of Byzantine-style lanes. It's a place where holes in the wall sell sizzling kebabs and crusty pitas; where hammams hide behind the elegant walls of 500-year-old bathhouses and Whirling Dervishes can be seen twirling in the courtyards. In the Turkish controlled area of Nicosia your tour guide will also showcase the wealth of architectural wonders left over from the Ottoman era, like the Selimiye Mosque and the arcades of The Great Inn (dating to 1572!). Should you be around to attend the Gönyeli Festival of July or the Jazz fest of September, be prepared to kick up melodies around the beige-stone streets.