A wedge of shimmering sand that pokes its way out of the north Chilean coast into the rollers of the Pacific, Iquique is not your typical South American beach town. With overtones of Cancun and the rivieras of the Caribbean here, casinos dominate the sand-side boulevards, palm trees flap in the wind next to al fresco bars laden with pisco sours, surfers take time off to flit between the duty-free shops, and sunbathing beats cultural pursuits hands down.

The main beach action is centred on the enticing trio of Playa Cavancha, Brava and Huayquique, running north to south along the front of the city. This is where the left-to-righters draw the surfers in the midday heat, and where the click of casino wheels echoes at night. To the north of the centre is where visitors will find the so-called Zofri; a mass of electronics and perfume shops that come courtesy of a government tax-free zone.

For something a little more cultured, go ahead and engage an Iquique tour guide to explore the clutch of 19^th-century buildings on Baquedano Street and the neighbouring towns such as Humberstone and Santa Laura, reminiscent of the splendour of Chile’s saltpeter era.