Ribeira Grande sits at the end of the arduous mountain roads that pierce through the very heart of Cape Verde's most rugged island, Santo Antão. It's nestled behind a phalanx of jagged mountains, which seem to channel the tropical currents that drift through this part of the Atlantic, creating verdant tree covers between the rocky peaks. As you come in from Porto Novo in the south, look out for a well-preserved crater and the fertile agricultural plains around it, before the colorful row houses of Ribeira Grande reveal themselves. There is a distinct Portuguese feel to the architecture, with cafes selling strong coffees and custard tarts a further testimony to the Iberian influence at work. Don't miss the pretty Nossa Senhora do Rosário church, and be sure to get haggling lessons from your Ribeira Grande tour guide when it's time to hit its local market.