Backed by a phalanx of regimented peaks, the little harbors of Porto Novo are bound to be many a traveler's first impression of Santo Antao island. Drifting in across the swells of the Canal de Sao Vicente from little Mindelo, the mountains and gnarled volcanic domes that come into view here further make up a rather dramatic setting for what is really a down-to-earth transport hub. Ferries and cargo ships continually rumble in and out of the jetties, and once you're done strolling down the single central drag, flitting between the fish markets and age-stained churches, prep with your Porto Novo tour guides for the wild outdoors. Go south, where the blustery coast comes punctuated by salt-washed cliffs and the lush valleys of Tarrafal de Monte Trigo. Or, go north to Ribeira Grande, hair-pinning up the mountain tracks through little villages where colá dances are rampant, and the locals smile.