Enchantment in Graz begins at its centre. A UNESCO World Heritage site since 1999, this sea of red-tiled baroque buildings and urbane facades is crowned by the mighty rises of the Schloßberg hill, a craggy mass of alpine rock where once the city’s fortress turned back Ottoman armies and Hungarian hordes alike. Today it’s crowned by the curious Uhrturm clock tower and offers sweeping views over the Mur River valley, where it’s possible to pick out the exquisite Eggenberg Palace, the town’s Gothic cathedral and the Mannerist Mausoleum of Emperor Ferdinand II no less!

Of course, with all that history and culture there’s a hefty chaser of museums and galleries, and Graz tour guides often recommend hitting the armoury of the Landeszeughaus and the all-new Kunsthaus, before unwinding in the one of the city’s al fresco lidos or settling down for a Stiegl and a schnitzel in a classic Austrian heuriger. After dark, Graz takes on an entirely different character, as crowds of resident students flock from the lecture halls to the trendy pubs at the city centre, the sausage stands at Hauptplatz square and the smoky New York jazz bars between the faces of Mariahilferstraße.