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SENEGAL CASAMANCE : UN SORRISO AFRICANO CON IL TAM TAM DEL CUORE

Giuseppe

Tour Guide, Palermo, Italy

| 13 mins read

CASAMANCE SENEGAL: A SMILE WITH AFRICAN TAM TAM HEART                                                                                                                                             

Malik looks with bulging eyes and look amazed fingers (with 2 dots drawn over her eyes as if they were), Gianfranco,  playing with the kids to do the magician, beating alternately on the table indices of the two hands, getting rid of the first to appear and the 'while the other blows over stating loudly "gigino and gigetto that goes over the roof, fly fly gigino gigetto returns gigino gigetto back." The child is surrounded by other kids asked where the missing finger and seeks an explanation, urging Gianfranco repeat the game ... a simple game, but new to him, that the white man takes away from giving a moment of escape from the monotony . As simple as this ancient tale is the story experienced by the group on the trip SENEGAL   CASAMANCE. We're Elinkine, a handful of 4 houses in the delta of the river Casamance, a village of just over 300 residents   of Jola ethnic group, related to the economy of fishing, and the air tainted with the odor   of strong p-utes dry, lying on the beach next to the small harbor. A pirogue leads nell'acqui trinoso-delta starting Cap Skirring, crossing sandbanks covered with mangroves and inhabited by aquatic birds, to visit some  villages to the island of Karabane first French trading outpost in the region in which the Catholic cemetery are the tom-be settlers and sailors. For years, the Casamance, inhabited mainly by Jola rice farmers and fishermen, and tired of not having recognized the rights of its people, through central government officials in the majority Wolof and Muslim,   attempts to gain independence from Senegal. The whole nation is itself independent from French colonial terri-bull from August 20, 1960, with the creation of the republic, whose first president Leopold Senghor, a promoter with his thoughts of Pan-Africanism, is still considered the Father of the Nation . Although the most practiced religion is Islam, its mixture with the Christian and ancient animistic practices, through a particular syncretic fusion, makes a tolerant nation and different from the neighboring states of West Africa, with peaceful coexistence of all religions.   The tourist office if-negalese offers destinations for all tastes "Sea, nature, wilderness, culture" and that in the real-ty maintains. In the midst of enchanting natural scenery, with the possibility of authentic encounters, experiences of community life and cultural moments, Senegal is one of the most interesting destinations in West Africa, so as to fascinate even the savvy traveler's l'Africa-Star. They also have a smile a smile that becomes contagious. They also have a smile a smile that becomes contagious.                                                                                                                                 On the way back there is a stop to visit the village of Mandingo Afiya Magazine, which is different from those Peul for the base cemented huts, and small Fulani village of Debou-roofed huts typically covered by "calabash". The opportunity to learn even BEDIK  is always near Kedougou, where 7 km away is the village of Fula Ibel, just below the mountain. From here, a trek of 45 minutes along a stony path, passing 200 meters in altitude, we reach the top of the village of Iwol made ​​of thatched huts, surrounded by baobab trees and fromager. There is also the sacred baobab, in which a person was buried, which is the largest of Senegal with 30 meters in circumference. Here lives the ethnic community BEDIK , managed by Jean Batipste the factotum of the village: he says Mass in the large hut built by the French mission, he is the teacher of 30 students, is he who manages the resources of the 150 inhabitants and and to him that I give pens and here-dern be distributed to children and soap and cola nuts for women and men. Older women wear nose stud as a pin porcupine. Again glimpses of the beautiful village scenery lend themselves as a group photo with the women and children BEDIK, with positive consent of Francesca and Maria Luisa, whose cameras going crazy in catch the first plane memory. Paola was elected Miss BEDIK, though there was little hedgehog pin the nose ... even the kids did not give up and are reaching out to all. The crossing of the Sine-Saloum Delta in a dugout canoe is the opportunity to watch a little 'nature of Senegal, who here has an exuberant vegetation: mangroves push deep along the arms of the sea and the lakes formed by rivers 'water, make thousands of islets, sandbanks on which they meet, crocodiles, monkeys, tar-tarughe, hyenas, warthogs and the rare manatee, hard to find. A stop in the village God-gane, yet another excuse to look at aspects of everyday life, with people here always smiling and with a bustling fishing port, where a hint of a dance step Gianfranco is returned spontaneously by jerky movements of the pelvic female m-nili, followed by the visit of the "des reposair the oiseux," a sanctuary birdlife on a lot iso-dense mangrove on the branches at sunset come to sleep and rest-of verses non-migratory birds or passing through: Cormorants pelicans, official, herons and many more ... a thrill not to be missed, highlighted by the comments of Stephen, an expert birdwatcher, which sets out quietly, one by one the names of birds sighted, with great consent of all present! The estuary of the delta along the coast is also a natural ecosystem with strips of sand in constant evolution, which provides around Palmarin pa-noramici views with baobab trees and tropical palm trees and deserted beaches lapped dall'oce-ano. Going north instead an island separated from the mainland by a wooden bridge, protected from the open sea by the peninsula of Joal-language surprises by its special shape-ing. We Fadiout, consisting of shells of molluscs, who lived on the island thousands of years ago and have been deposited there over time. On the island lives a population, 90% Christian and only the remaining 10% Muslim, the exact opposite of the rest of Senegal! The cemetery houses the graves of the two religions peacefully, confirming the reli-gious tolerance of the community. Piero a local guy, who calls himself so because he speaks Italian well, goes through the narrow streets of this surreal village of Serere ethnic group, indicating the original birthplace of Leopold Senghor, the first president of Senegal. All Fadiout to speak of shells, from the roads to the houses, the cemetery common to Christians and Muslims with a view of the granaries; even the Catholic church, dedicated to St. Francis Xavier, was affected by their presence in its construction and the 2 holy water at the entrance are 2   shells of giant clams, collected the wall. Returning to the mainland, the bridge becomes a natural September videophotographic: Beppe is excited to photograph with beautiful light women of the local cooperative, intent to collect shells from the muddy bottom, while the boys taking advantage of the low tide using the fund emerged as a field of calcium, and Stephen videoriprende the same scenes. A show that of the varied nature of Senegal, that within the Reserva de Bandia, with a specific truck 4X4, allows you to do a Safari Game Drive certainly not as Tanzania or Botswana, but equally satisfactory in the bush, watching zebras, giraffes, ostriches, colorful birds, impala and some rhinoceros, an exemplary commentary by Stephen classes and zoological orders. If the nature of Senegal is king, it is the sister culture, allowing interesting visits to the Mosque of Touba, the holy city of the brotherhood Muoride founded by Amadou Bamba who is buried there, in Iaminullah, a village of marabouts, which features   original fence and construction cane, and the interesting Saint Louis. It is located in the north of the country on an island at the mouth of the Senegal River, was discovered in 1659 by French settlers, before becoming a center for the slave trade and the trade of gum arabic and then since 1840 the capital of Senegal. Its colonial charm is still visible through the metal bridge and revolving Faidherbe, 1897, in the adjacent table at the Hotel de la Poste in the remains of colonial architecture with typical balconies and patios along the main Avenue Blaise Diagne, leading the Grand Mosque, is not open to the inside. In the lo-cal Handicraft Market, a shrewd trader chasing me wondering what in Italian cities are. I'm tempted to say "San Marino" for spiazzarlo, as is customary for someone; I ponder ... if I say I'm in Palermo, would be outside the usual hateful stereotypes about the Mafia, cap and various crap ... and I do not really want to, but staring into his eyes I say ... I'm in Palermo and he ... I was in Palermo, I c 'I worked one years! We become like friends ... and while not gaining anything in his banquet me as an interpreter at one of his colleagues, making me a discount ... at least I think ... .Its time I smile happily for the pleasant memory!   In St. Louis you can not give a ' look, crossed the bridge that connects Mustapha Gaye, also adjacent Guest N'Dar, where the chaotic fishing village until you reach the ocean beach, packed with boats, in which a few free spaces while the children play guys do football or exercising in gym bending. Recrossing back to the bridge and look under it rowboats who train in anticipation of the races are very popular by locals. Gianfranco paws! At last came the long-awaited moment to engage in "art tersicorea" in a night club that has identified. To stay in the colonial theme you can not miss to visit the tourist island of Goree, guarding the city of Dakar, pie-na charm and romance, despite the presence of des Esclaves Mason and his memories of the horrors of slavery. Not far from Saint Louis is the Parc National des Oiseaux du Djoudj third largest bird park in the world and a World Heritage Site. Since joining with canoe navigating the main channel of the river Senegal, beyond which is Mauritania, watching iguanas, warthogs and a large concentration of migratory waterfowl on the branches of the mangroves and among the water lilies. The highlight is the approach to the island "Nicheurs des pellicans', which is home to the largest colony of pelicans in the world, certainly the most pleasant excursion to the group. Mary Louise, Paula and Alessandra are e-stasiate and would like to stay there! The island looks like a carrier with a moltitudi-ne of birds, arranged by area: the area for breeding, nursery with little cared for by mothers and fathers, the runway and the take-off on the shore of the lake. The return to Dakar seems a simple transfer, but actually sleeping on Lompoul is a gem! The Campment is located between the dunes of the desert and arriving at sunset is a good time now to enjoy the highest dune. Then he made ​​a shower in the adjacent bathroom area enclosed by zeribe you to the common area for musical entertainment at a frenetic pace of drums played by children, which invite to dance. How strange ... Paula, Sandra, Francesca, Maria Luisa, Alessandra Beppe and even Stefano and I move the heels with some small step on the carpet; Gianfranco with his catchphrase lasted the whole trip with its special 'dances tersicoree "however, remains anchored to the chair!  The dinner of excellent couscous with mutton, is followed by the observation of the stars visible to the naked eye at that time due to lack of light pollution, and then I put the handy re-within the large tents. The approach Dakar is always nice: a stop at Kayar allows you to see the town's fishing boats with a multitude of drawings policormi ever seen and one of the Lac Rosé. Here with 2 4X4 car is made ​​the tour of the lake, also called Retba, visiting the salt flats, particular for collecting in the bottom of the salt lake, which brought to shore, it is first dried in the sun and then wrapped; the fields of fine parsley, washed down with the help of brackish water; the pink lake area due to the presence of minerals therein discolti and the nearby village of Fulani 'Mboneba. The conclusion of the tour is a thrilling ride on off-road at high speed   through the dunes to the beach, lapped by the Atlantic Ocean, the finish area of the glorious Paris-Dakar Rally. The Last Supper is un'ennesimo convivial and "tell between the re-ghe" before returning home and say goodbye to 'Ndongo, friend and driver: Alessandra kicking-Saharan declared indeed "vegeitaliana" as it was renamed, signs of Cleopadra, his cat home, fed instead Kitekat; Paola Italian city manager, but a Londoner by adoption,   says his fight daily stress with fitness sessions to the sound of zumba; Maria Luisa neopensionata is rather happy to be able to spend on travel that could not be done. Post-trip, it seems that the story is over, but the tom-tom beat of the heart always bringing up every emotion felt ... it is inevitable ... it is still and always that trouble already known ... said Mal d'Africa !!!