| 6 mins read
By Joseph Francis
Rugged, wild, historically rich and beautiful in the extreme, Bosnia and Herzegovina has risen out of its dark and tumultuous days of the 1990s, when it found itself at the destructive epicentre of the breakup of Yugoslavia and the collapse of communism in the Balkans. Today, its cities pulse with a newfound energy, chic cafes lurk on the corners of the old Ottoman bazaars, sun-splashed al fresco bars dot the squares of Mostar and the chiselled crags that dominate the backcountry from the Adriatic cliffs to the Pannonian basin play host to hikers, snowboarders, skiers, and mountain bikers aplenty. If you’re looking to go off-the-beaten-track in Europe this year and experience this largely untrodden gem that’s away from the tourist trail, then be sure to check out this Bosnia and Herzegovina travel guide, which outlines all of the country’s must-do, must-see things, from sipping gritty coffees in traditional Slavic taverns to hitting the winding waterways of truly beautiful national parks and delving into the rich history of the nation to boot.
Explore the Bascarsija of Sarajevo
Ask any Sarajevo tour guide about the top sights in the enthralling capital of Bosnia and Herzegovina and the beautiful Bascarsija is likely to be high on the list. Oozing with authentic Ottoman charm, the area is a remnant of Turkic hegemony in the Balkans. It is home to the pretty facades and domes of the Emperor's Mosque, whose single spiked minaret pieces high above the city. And all around this landmark, crisscrossing lanes of cobblestone form a grid of interesting little eateries and the leafy courtyards of the Morića Han (a 500-year-old tavern where gritty coffees meet aromatic kebabs and chatty locals) bustle with life.
See the Old Bridge and town of Mostar
Sun-splashed, UNESCO-tagged Mostar commands a seriously glorious place straddling the Neretva River in southern Bosnia. Travelers head here in their droves, eager to get lost amidst the stone-clad alleys of the Old Town area; a beautiful synthesis of the Ottoman, Austro-Hungarian, Baroque and Adriatic architectural schools. That said, the undisputed piece de resistance here has to be the so-called Old Bridge. Now reconstructed after the Bosnian War, it oozes Islamic charm as the Neretva channels babble away below.
Wonder at the beauty of Blagaj
Oft hailed as one of the most beautiful towns in all of the Balkans, Blagaj makes its home below the rugged cliffs of the Mostar basin. Here, travelers can seek out the majestic ensemble of the so-called Vrelo Bune; a cultural landscape that encompasses the gushing spring of the Buna River and the gorgeous Ottoman rises of the Blagaj Tekke. This 500-year-old Sufi inn and mausoleum complex has piqued the interest of UNESCO and offers a unique glimpse into the Turkic past of this multifaceted nation.
Hit the waters in the Una National Park
Bosnia and Herzegovina tour guides will often recommend making the trip to this remote national park on the borderlands with Croatia. Encompassing some of the most dramatic sections of the Unac River basin, the area includes everything from gushing waterfalls to wild riparian hillsides, where lynxes and chamois tread in the shadow of the mighty Ostrovica Fortress of the middle ages. The real pull though has to be the cataracts at Martin Brod; a symphony of green and blue waters that flows elegantly down and over the Bosnian escarpments.
Ski the slopes of Jahorina
Nestled amidst the rising, snow-mantled (at least by winter) peaks of the Dinaric Alps, the Jahorina ski field offers alpine runs, snowboarding and cross-country Nordic tracks aplenty, all within easy reach from the capital at Sarajevo. A whole clutch of brand new lifts and gondola plans make it arguably one of the most up-and-coming resorts in the region, while an array of cosy highland cottages and timber chalets serve the range of blue, red and easy-going green runs nicely.
Fill up on Ćevapi
No trip to Bosnia and Herzegovina could possibly be complete without sampling this iconic national dish. Essentially a skinless sausage of minced beef, lamb or pork combined with fresh onions, feta cheese and paprika, the tasty, filling, and carnivore-friendly staple is another remnant of Ottoman influence here. And while the meaty creations can be found all over the Balkan region, the locals are adamant that they’re best eaten from the traditional taverns of downtown Sarajevo, Banja Luka, Višegrad or Mostar.
See the waterfalls and castles of Jajce
Once the capital of the medieval Kingdom of Bosnia, Jajce still oozes with historical tales and Bosnian heritage. It’s crowned at the centre by the formidable walls of a great citadel; now in ruins but also hailed as the onetime spot where the nation’s kings were crowned. And all around this striking fortress, Bosnia’s rugged inland mountains rise to form an altogether different type of bulwark, while the gushing Jajce waterfalls - crashing through the centre of town itself - mark this city out as a real must visit for sure!
Sample gritty Bosnian coffees
Sampling a traditional Bosnian coffee is something of a rite of passage for travellers making their way to this corner of the Balkans. Distinct in its brewing method (unlike Turkish coffees, Bosnian brews are boiled and boiled again on an open stove) and served in a traditional, long-handled džezva pot made of copper, the drink is unique throughout all of Europe. What’s more, it makes a fine accompaniment to people watching, and is perfect for sipping in the taverns of Bascarsija or the millhouse bars of old Mostar.
Wander the beautiful walkways of Vrelo Bosne
Easily accessed from the capital via the Velika Aleja, which stands lined with a medley of elegant Austro-Hungarian villas and mansions from the 18th century, the Vrelo Bosne park offers the perfect escape from metropolitan life just a short jaunt out of downtown Sarajevo. As the name suggests, it’s the site of the spring waters of the River Bosna itself, while this bubbling outlet at the foot of Mount Igman is also encircled by countless cycling tracks, walking paths and riparian woodlands.
Joseph ‘Rich’ Francis is a freelance travel writer who has travelled extensively in Asia and Europe. He particularly enjoys the jazz bars of Poland, the ski slopes of Austria and the beaches and cities of India.
Image Details and Licenses: https://flic.kr/p/aHwjTe (Journey Jeff's Pix, CC BY-NC-ND 2.0), https://flic.kr/p/eH1QPs (Ebs Els, CC BY-ND 2.0), https://flic.kr/p/yqq7tT (Milo van Kovacevic, CC BY 2.0), https://flic.kr/p/pfnszJ (Muhamed Toromanovic, CC BY-NC 2.0), https://flic.kr/p/6rVVSX (Ratko Bozovic, CC BY 2.0), https://flic.kr/p/26Cob7 (David Dufresne, CC BY-NC-ND 2.0), https://flic.kr/p/AsUqJ9 (sarah Wattouat, CC BY-NC 2.0), https://flic.kr/p/nVrhU3 (Terekhova, CC BY-NC-ND 2.0), https://flic.kr/p/9D49zw (Patrick Rasenberg, CC BY-NC 2.0)