| 6 mins read
The idea of solo travelling can be truly daunting. However, it cannot be denied that it is a must-experience in one's life. It not only teaches you to handle the logistics of a trip solely, but it connects you to your true self in ways that cannot be defined in words. Our guest writer, Sarah, recently went on a solo trek in Portugal and here's what she has to say-
Growing up, I often heard about the charms of Portugal and how it is an excellent place for surfing, seafood, soccer, and sunshine, all combining to create something exceptional. And, of course, some magic comes from the land itself: the rocky cliffs, golden beaches, farming villages, and bustling cities. So I decided to solo hike Rota Vicentina, the Fisherman's Way trail- one of the most popular and picturesque trekking trails in Portugal. I've solo hiked before, and this trail had been recommended a few times, so I was excited to set off.
Pre-trek preparation
From my experience, I can say that much thought and preparation are needed before the hike. One of the most important things to consider is your stay. Especially on a trek, you must be prepared to stay in a tent if you don't find a hostel. Luckily, wild camping is prohibited on the Rota Vicentina, so I looked at the available hostels. Moreover, knowing the terrain is also crucial. I learnt that while Rota Vicentina doesn't involve a lot of climbing or high altitudes, the trails are sandy, which can be challenging for your leg muscles. It's essential to know the trail and to make sure that it's within your capabilities.
Know before you go
The Fisherman's Way starts in Sao Torpes, and it winds a total of 226.5 kilometres down the coast to Lagos. The trail has 13 sections, each between 10 and 22 km long. It's been carefully planned so each section can be walked separately in a single day. Bands of bright blue and green indicate the right trails to follow, and they are regularly painted onto posts, fences, and rocks so you know where to go. Combine those with the helpful maps and trail notes that you can find online or in each village, and there's no risk of getting lost!
Sometimes, bands of yellow and red would also appear on the posts. These are the markers for the Rota Vicentina Historical Way, a different trail and one of the classic European Grand Routes. While it intersects with the Fisherman's Way at some points, my research showed that most of the trail is further inland, taking hikers through rural and farmland areas. I had my sights set on coastal hiking, so I chose the Fisherman's Way, but I might be back another day to explore the Historical Way.
Kicking off the trail
After weeks of preparation and cramming all my gear into my hiking pack, in November 2022, I stepped off a plane at Lisbon Airport.
The sun was high in the sky when I began my first day in Sao Torpes, known for its warm waters and easy surf break. I set off excitedly, drinking in the views around me. With Sines to my back, I could no longer see the industrial city, so I just had views of the coastline stretching endlessly in front of me. I hiked along the sandy trails to Porto Covo, a small fishing village bustling with tourists in the summer. It was easy for me to find a morning espresso amongst the white walls and cobbled streets before I continued on the trail past the Praia Grande, a brilliant swimming spot.
The next few days of hiking took me further down the coast to Vila Nova de Milfontes, then to Almograve, and on to Zambujeira du Mar. The trail remained sandy, and I was glad I had good hiking shoes on to keep the sand out and my feet free from blisters! I walked up onto cliff tops, then down onto beaches, solo hiking the whole time with the ocean by my side.
"Solo hiking is a special kind of adventure. No matter where you go, hiking alone provides you with time and space to relax, breathe, and get to know yourself. You learn what you're capable of and how to depend on yourself. Walking through nature reminds you not to take Mother Earth for granted. Walking down the coast, I was alone with the world around me. I didn't have Netflix or social media to distract me, and I could appreciate my journey. I just put one foot in front of the other."
As I continued my adventure from Zambujeira to Odeceixe to Aljezur, the terrain started to change. At several points, I veered away from the ocean, instead following rivers inland. The rivers led me to towns, providing a wonderful change and magical cultural experiences. In Odeceixe, I ate octopus for the first time, freshly caught from the nearby Atlantic Ocean. In Aljezur, I visited the old town and gazed out at the town from the ruined castle perched high on the hilltops. In Zambujeira, I sat on the cliff tops above a carved-out cove, watching the sun go down over the ocean.
Sunsets, for me, are one of the highlights of any hiking trip I take. I love to find a quiet spot to sit, reflect on the day, and watch the sun go down. The sunsets I witnessed on the Fisherman's Way were some of the best I've ever seen. Bright oranges, pinks, and gold burst out from the clouds and reflected off the clouds and the sea. For me, these were some real Portuguese magic!
When I left Aljezur, I realised that I was comfortable and at ease on this journey. My beginning jitters were gone, and I was fully immersed in this adventure. I passed through the towns of Arrifana, Carrapateira, and Vila do Bispo. I got a taste of a different side of Portugal, seeing the Carrapateira fort and the Menhirs decorating Vila do Bispo. From Vila do Bispo, I could see the Sagres Lighthouse, just a speck on the horizon. As I got closer, it began to tower above the ocean below. This lighthouse marks the southeastern point of Continental Europe and has stood since 1846, warning sailors of the rocks below.
After taking in this sight, I walked on into Sagres, another beautiful surfing town. After Sagres, the days passed in a blur of blue water and golden sand. Salema was my next stop, then Luz, and before I knew it, I'd walked into Lagos.
The trail finishes in Lagos, the biggest city I'd been in since Lisbon. Standing in the center of Lagos, I realised that I'd reached the end of my adventure, and I was ready to have an ice-cold beer in the sun and put my feet up.
