| 7 mins read
By Jennifer Mullen
Many tourists envision India as a holiday destination set against background noises that are loud and raucous; a competing cacophony of horns, thundering traffic, and the cries of stallholders. Kerala, in stark contrast, is the state of peace and serenity. In fact, there is nothing better in Kerala than to close your eyes on a hammock and listen to the wind stirring the palm trees, like the folds of a crisp silk saree. Listen carefully, and somewhere in the distance you can hear hollow rhythmic beating of the traditional chenda wooden drums rolling across the broad expanses of the backwaters, accompanied by the chattering of birds. Particularly, at twilight, as the sun strokes its golden fingers through the palm fronds, can one fully understand why Kerala has earned its nickname as “Gods own country”.
Looking out into the Landscape…
Kerala indeed feels like a very spiritual place, but is equally appealing to atheists, as to believers. The strong Portuguese and Dutch influence can be seen in many of the pristine white churches, whose icing sugar facades are a brilliant contrast to the deep greenery. Roads are dotted with tiny and sometimes quirky Christian and Hindu shrines, and in many places the pointed minarets of mosques point up to the blue sky. For those with an alternate definition of “spirits”, many roads feature “toddy shops”, where one can sample a traditional alcoholic beverage made from the palm sap. To avoid having near out of body experiences, this extremely potent liquor is best sampled early in the morning, as the fermentation process in the sun can be relentless!
Kerala is famous worldwide for its fish curries, which are aromatic, brick red gravies, with a smoky flavour, due to the distinct flavours of cinnamon, cardamom, ginger, cloves, cumin seed, coriander, turmeric and coconut. For linguists, who enjoy a witty pun or two, the word for fish in Malayalam is “meen”, therefore sending a postcard home saying you had a “mean curry” in Kerala is particularly true!
Getting around…
Kerala, located at the western foot of India on the Malabar Coast is a destination, which deserves to be explored by road, rail or boat. Take the assistance of a knowledgeable Kerala tour guide to help you plan your journey, as particularly with road distances, it can take a lot more time to get from point A to B than you originally anticipated.
The most striking entry by road has to be the National Highway 49 from neighbouring Tamil Nadu, where the road snakes as dramatically as a striking cobra, up into the splendour of the Western Ghats Mountains. This UNESCO protected mountain range, covers a total area of 160,000KM2 and is one of the eight "hottest hotspots" of biological diversity in the world. It is believed that there are still species of flora and fauna yet to be discovered here. With seventeen hairpin bends, occasional rock falls and a steady procession of Mahindra Jeeps hurtling towards you on a dusty single track road, this climb is not for the faint hearted.
One is however promptly rewarded, as you hop across a small village at the top, dart under an almost toy like state barrier, then plunge immediately into an endless ocean of undulating emerald tea plantations. It is so quaint; one could almost imagine it to be an outpost of Middle Earth.
The Magic of Munnar…
The heartbeat of the Kerala’s tea industry is around the sleepy small town of Munnar, a hill station located 1,600 metres above sea level. For energetic travellers, this is an ideal base to do some trekking. The highest peak in Southern India, the impressive Anamudi Peak (2700 metres) can be found in the nearby Eravikulam National Park. It is essential to obtain permission from the Forest and Wildlife authorities, therefore consult a reliable Munnar tour guide, who can guide you through the paperwork.
A less energetic pursuit is to wander around the tea plantations, which resemble giant green velvet jigsaw puzzles. The only sound you will hear is the clinking of the shears of the female tea workers, who then effortlessly lift their bundles weighing in excess of 35kg on their heads and carry them down to be weighed at sunset. The origins and evolutions of these tea plantations can be viewed in the tea museum in Munnar. It is also worth packing a picnic to enjoy at Mattupetty Dam, or taking in some of the spectacular water falls, such as Athirappalli and Vazhachal on the Chalakudy River.
Back to Kerala’s urban centre: Kochi
Having experienced the peaks, the twisting descent by road to Kochi feels like a roller coaster ride, until the land suddenly flattens out towards the famous Kerala backwaters.Kochi, popularly known as the Queen of the Arabian Sea, has such an impressive harbour, it is easy to imagine why the port was the centre of the Spice Trade for so many years. Named India’s Spice Coast, ancient Kerala played host to traders and merchants from many corners of Europe and the Orient, including Greeks, Romans, Arabs, Dutch, British, Portuguese, French and even the Chinese.
Take some time to wander around the old part of the city in Fort Kochi to take in sights such as the Chinese Fishing Nets and the Dutch Palace. Marine Drive is the main shopping district and has one of the best promenades in India to watch the world stroll by, particularly at sunset. Another important site is the Hill Palace, which houses the largest archaeological museum in Kerala.
Gliding along the Backwaters…
The jewel in the crown of Kerala is no doubt the backwaters, which are an intricate network of waterways and inlets, linking five large lakes. These are fed by the numerous rivers which flow down from the Western Ghats Mountains, creating a fragile, yet stunning eco system, vital for irrigating the vast expanses of paddy fields. From the banks of places such as Kollam, Alappuzha or Kumarakom (amongst many more), many tourists board kettuvallams, better known as house boats. These were originally used for the transportation of grain, to transport rice harvested from the fertile plains. Nowadays these are kitted out with a kitchen, air conditioned bedrooms and decks. One can cruise leisurely along the waters, taking in locals washing clothes in the river, children riding bicycles along the banks and dense colonies of duck farms. Off the main canals, there are lagoons whose Chinese fishing nets make elegant silhouettes at sunset, caressed by giant islands of floating plants, which drift like giant continents, teeming with insects and bird life.
Kerala is one of India’s top tourist destinations, yet it feels a lot more relaxed and laid back than her neighbouring states to the North. Therefore, find an empty hammock and breathe in the serenity, knowing the only thing left to worry about is falling coconuts.
(Jen Mullen is a seasoned traveler, having lived and worked in the UK, Germany, Switzerland, Australia and most recently South India. In her opinion, the best parts about traveling are meeting the locals, sampling as much new food as possible, and making an effort to learn new languages)
Image Details and Licenses: https://flic.kr/p/qkXCfy (Stefano Ravalli, CC BY-NC 2.0), https://flic.kr/p/vsTbs (Liji Jinaraj, CC BY-SA 2.0),https://flic.kr/p/9f16ZU(Matthew Stevens,CC BY-NC-ND 2.0),https://flic.kr/p/5pgAot(gnlogic,CC BY-NC-ND 2.0),https://flic.kr/p/bED7DG(Hari Ratan,CC BY-NC-ND 2.0),https://flic.kr/p/2caDoJ(Ankur P,CC BY-SA 2.0),https://flic.kr/p/c9Db65(smruti_damania,CC BY-NC-ND 2.0),https://flic.kr/p/8d19mR(Raj,CC BY 2.0),https://flic.kr/p/aqPQiG(Veeresh Malik,CC BY-NC-SA 2.0),https://flic.kr/p/myD7t (Matt, CC BY-NC-SA 2.0),https://flic.kr/p/bwJeTm(Saad Faruque,CC BY-SA 2.0),https://flic.kr/p/F73Kf(Ed Mitchell,CC BY-NC-SA 2.0)