A journey to the ‘Sacred City’ of Anuradhapura.

tourHQ Editorials

14 Nov 2014 | 9 mins read

By Julie Jennings

A journey back in time to an ancient civilization with ancient peoples and customs, Eastern beliefs, and rich flavors – this sounds like the setting for a story once told sitting around the fire or a novel read on a lazy afternoon. Yet, this journey is real when one travels to Old Town Anuradhapura, the once thriving kingdom of the Sinhalese people. For more than 1,000 years, this capital of Sri Lankan society cultivated architecture, artistry and agriculture as witnessed in modern-day archeological sites throughout the area and as experienced in its continued emphasis on culture, artistry and tradition even today. Here’s a Traveller Guide to Anuradhapura’s historical background, and the many hidden gems of this lost city.

Sigiriya Sri Lanka

Looking Back

The Sinhalese people of Anuradhapura were skilled thinkers, as seen by the complex irrigation systems built for this northern, arid land as well as their education system. But then they were also embattled. Invasions from Southern India and internal strife amongst the Sinhalese clans brought continued fighting and violence to Anuradhapura, which finally ceased to be, when the Sinhalese capital moved south to Polannaruwa in the late 10^th century. Over time the surrounding jungle engulfed what was left of the once mighty kingdom, until British explorers uncovered the treasured ruins in the 19^th century.

Anuradhapura Ruins

Language and Religion in Sri Lanka

Travelers to Anuradhapura will likely hear Sinhalese, the country’s official language, which is unique to the island and rooted in Indo-Aryan origins. Tamil is also spoken extensively.

Buddhism is the main religion of Sri Lanka. It played, and continues to play, a key role in society here. The ruins at Anuradhapura reflect the strong influence of Buddhism in Sinhalese culture; the kingdom grew in strength with Buddhism in Sri Lanka, and at one point in time boasted the largest library of Buddhist texts.

Buddhism in Sri Lanka

Proper Attire and Respect for Buddhist Customs

Before setting off with an Anuradhapura Tour Guide to explore the 16 square miles of the ancient city, pack clothing that will allow for easy travel in and around. Buddhist and Sri Lankan customs are still prominent today, so clothing should cover the knees, as well as the shoulders. Shoes and hats should be removed as a mark of respect when visiting the religious ruins. A knowledge of Buddhist practices is also helpful, such as never turning one’s back to a Buddha statue or image, keeping the right hand (considered to be clean) to the side facing the object on display, and never taking a picture in front of a Buddha statue or image.

Buddha Statue from Mihintale

Things to Do in the ‘Sacred City’ of Anuradhapura

Begin at the Bodhi (Bo) Tree, also named Sri Maha Bodhi. According to legend, Buddhism first came to King Tissa in Sri Lanka during the reign of the Indian Mauryan emperor Ashoka in the 3^rd century B.C. The leader of the mission to Sri Lanka and son of Ashoka, Mahendra, traveled to Mihintale Hill with the missionaries, several miles from Anuradhapura. There, they met the Sinhalese king, to whom they delivered a sermon on Buddhism.The king embraced the religion with open arms, so Mahendra sent for his sister Sanghamitta, who arrived with a branch of the Bo, or Bodhi, tree, under which the Buddha had attained enlightenment. The tree was ceremonially planted in the city and became what is now the Bodhi Tree. Keep in mind that the tree is simple in its form, but its religious significance is tremendous. An evening visit should be considered to avoid large crowds.

Maha Bodhi, Anuradhapura

Mihintale, the sacred site of the chance meeting between Mahendra and King Tissa sits several miles away from Anuradhapura. This religious area beckons Buddhist pilgrims from all over the world, particularly on the day of the full moon in Poson, the month of June, when Mahendra gave the first Buddhist sermon to King Tissa. There are many sacred ruins to visit here and a spectacular view from the hilltop.

Mihintale - Mahinda's hill Just a short minutes from the Bodhi Tree in the Royal Pleasure Gardens is Isurumuniya Rock Temple, built by King Tissa as a Buddhist residence. It is said Prince Saliya, the son of King Dutugemanu, fell in love with a commoner, named Asokamala, whom he married and thereby forsook his right to the throne. The temple was home to several ancient artifacts, including the carvings of the Isurumuniya Lovers, Elephant Pond and the Royal Family.

Sacred Isurumuni Raja Maha Viharaya in Anuradhapura Anuradhapura encompasses several sacred Buddhist monasteries, referred to as stupas, or in Sinhalese, dagobas. These are generally peaceful oasis of contemplation, surrounded by lush foliage and wildlife. Near the Bodhi Tree and The Brazen Palace, which once housed over 1,000 monks and is named for its formerly bronze-tiled roof, is the all-white Ruwanwelisseya Dagoba, built in about 150 B.C. by King Dutugemanu. Also called the “Great Stupa” for its immense size, this architectural feat soars 300 ft. above the ground and appears to be protected by the impressive frieze of elephants on the surrounding stone wall. Worshippers still attend services here and the full moon draws tremendous crowds.

Brazen Palace, Anuradhapura A red brick monastery built in 200 A.D. by King Mahasena and once one of the tallest buildings in the ancient world behind only the Egyptian Pyramids, the Jethawanaramaya Stupa originally stood 400 ft. tall, but over time crumbled at its highest point.

Jetavanaramaya Dagoba Believed to house the collar bone of the Buddha, the Dagoba of Thuparama, is the oldest of the stupas in Anuradhapura, built by King Tissa in the 3^rd century B.C. The stupa, containing the sacred relic, is surrounded by a vatadage, a circular structure of ornate stone columns to protect the stupa. This feature is unique to Sri Lankan architecture.

Thuparama dagoba in Anuradhapura Lastly, the Mirisaveti Stupa, also built by King Dutugemunu, is located near a lake, and legend says the king placed relics of Buddha in his scepter and laid it on the ground before bathing, and when he returned could not lift the scepter. He then had Mirisaveti Stupa built around the scepter and its precious relics.

Mirisavetiya Stupa - Anuradhapura The recently renovated Archaeology Museum housed in the old British colonial administration building exhibits an interesting collection of artwork, carvings and everyday items from Anuradhapura and other historic sites around Sri Lanka. Tickets to see the various sites of Anuradhapura are also available here for purchase.

Archaeological Museum, Anuradhapura

New Town Anuradhapura

The modern-day main street in the newer part of town can be walked in half an hour, and offers a glimpse into the daily life of the residents here. Shops and eateries abound, stimulating with their sights, sounds and smells; don’t leave without indulging in the purchase of traditional saris – long, brightly colored fabric worn by women. A highlight is the weekend market, a colorful, bustling stream of pushcarts and tables full of local fruits, vegetables, fish and local fare. Some street vendors may try to sell artifacts, or fake versions of them, from the ruins, but be warned that it is illegal to take artifacts more than 100 years-old out of Sri Lanka.

Anuradhapura Town

Sri Lankan Food

Sri Lanka is known around the world for its spices, cinnamon and curry in particular. Traditional Sri Lankan meals can be spicy; so remember to tweak your chili requests as per your preferences. Curry is most common, using fish, chicken, pork or mutton, plus several curries of vegetables, lentils and for the adventurous eater, wild boar as well. Sides may include pickles, chutneys and sambols (simple mixtures with chili paste), the most famous of which is coconut sambol. Kiribath is another food found commonly on the menu, combining rice and coconut milk. Food carts offer many local foods, such as stir-fried chick peas.

Sri Lankan Food

If a cocktail sounds good after a hot day, then try arrack, a spirit made from coconut, which is popular throughout Sri Lanka. Also, try the locals’ Beli Mal tea, using the Beli leaf, believed to increase appetite as well as other homeopathic remedies.

Sri Lanka Arrack

Some DOs in Anuradhapura

DO have a tourist Visa secured in your home country; Sri Lanka did away with Free visa on arrival in 2012 and though the facility is still available, it can be time consuming.

DO check with a doctor at least six weeks prior to a trip to this area, since Hepatitis A and B and Typhoid vaccinations are recommended.

DO carry plenty of bug repellent, since Dengue Fever, a mosquito-borne disease, is prevalent in this area of Sri Lanka.

Getting There and Around the City

The closest airport, Colombo International Airport, is located 120 miles southwest in Katunayake, just north of the capital city, Colombo. It is the main airport for the Northern provinces. From there, travelers can take a train ride of approximately four hours. Accommodations can be found in New Town Anuradhapura among the many guest houses. Buses and tuk-tuks (small, three-wheeled vehicles) are available to get around the area, as well as bicycles, which many people ride around Anuradhapura.

Weather in Anuradhapura

As part of the dry zone in the North Central Province, Anuradhapura may go from 70s F and reach as high as 90s F, with a distinct monsoon season during the months of November through January. Although not as wet as southern Sri Lanka, this northern region still receives about 30 to 70 inches of rain per year. Droughts of nearly three months are also common in the dry zone.

Monsoon in Anuradhapura

(Julie Jennings enjoys writing about people she’s met, places she’s visited and experiences she’s had. She lives with her two children in Southern California and dreams of taking her next trip.)

A journey to the ‘Sacred City’ of Anuradhapura.

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