| 6 mins read
By Jennifer Mullen
If Georgia were a person he would have mysterious, natural good looks, with nobody really being sure if he is Asian or fully European. He would be small framed in size, yet would seem strong and proud, with an independent nature, glancing over his shoulder to make sure his Soviet neighbour isn’t crossing his fence. He would admit that he isn’t the best driver in the world (but who would be in an old Soviet era car, with no handbrake?). He would also speak proudly of his family and village traditions, announcing it was time to toast their health by sounding a large drinking horn!
Situated at the eastern end of the Black Sea, and bordered by giants Turkey and Russia, as well as the smaller countries of Armenia and Azerbaijan, Georgia is today a nation transitioning into a tourist destination. A Georgia tour guide would certainly confirm that this is part of the country’s charm; being crowd free, very reasonably priced and still able to offer the sensation of being a “traveller” as opposed to a mainstream “tourist”. The scenery offered by the commanding Caucasus Mountains is an unexpected bonus.
Due to its location on the southern slopes of this mountain range, Georgia’s culture has evolved from a mix of European, Middle Eastern and central Asian influences, making it a unique destination to explore. For many years the country was not a safe place to visit, due to its tempestuous relationship with the Soviet Union. Thankfully, nowadays travellers are mainly preoccupied with practical details, such as avoiding potholes and animals on the roads, the lack of luxury tourist infrastructure (which can naturally also be viewed as a plus) and the probability of being roped into an all-night drinking and dancing session by vocal, back slapping locals!
Most travellers start in the capital, Tbilisi, which is an enticing melting pot of eastern and western influences, punctuated with old-fashioned Soviet quirkiness! For the best views in town, take the cable car up to the 17th-century Narikala citadel for a bird’s-eye panorama. Here one can get a close-up of the iconic Mother Georgia statue, who holds a cup of wine in one hand and a sword in the other. A Tbilisi tour guide will encourage you to wander through the twisting lanes of the old town, with its pretty ornate balconied houses, domed bathhouses and Byzantine churches, around which a new crop of cafes, restaurants and boutique hotels are also starting to spring up.
One of the best experiences in Tbilisi is to visit a hammam in the historic Abanotubani part of the city. Do check in advance if they have private rooms if you are not body confident about bathing in front of strangers though. The sulphur smell and piping hot water does take some getting used to, but many bathhouses have interesting beehive domes dating back to the 17th century.
The Tsimda Sameba Cathedral, set in large gardens, is an impressive structure, which has come to symbolise the sacrifice and determination of the Georgian people. Likewise the Georgian National Museum will keep history enthusiasts enthralled for hours.
Food is a big factor that defines Georgian culture and as a nation, the people are famous for their hospitality. You may find yourself being invited to eat with strangers; therefore ditch the diet and join in the feast. Local specialities include khachapuri (stuffed flatbreads), shashlik (kebabs), lobio (kidney bean stew cooked in a large clay pot) and badrijani nigvzit (aubergines with walnut paste). Do also try the Khinkali, which are delicious Georgian dumplings filled with juice, as well as tkemali, a sour plum sauce, eaten with nearly everything. Many families grow their own grapes, with which they make their own wine – in fact Georgia claims to be the birthplace of wine!
When in Georgia make it a point to visit Batumi, a seaside resort and port located on the Black Sea. Here the temperature is subtropical, making it an important centre for agriculture. Batumi has some unusual architecture, such as buildings in the style of the Acropolis, a lighthouse, an upside-down White House and the Alphabet Tower celebrating Georgian script.
Gagra is another Black Sea town, which served as a health resort during Soviet times. Nowadays it serves as a base for seeing some of the beautiful lakes in the area, such as Lake Rica, Lake Mzi and Goluboye Azero, whose turquoise waters certainly live up to their name.
One of the biggest attractions of Georgia is its natural beauty. Sports lovers can be confident their adrenaline will flow with pursuits such as rafting, paragliding, horse riding and skiing. There are also some stunning hiking trails, although do check with an experienced Georgian walking tour guide before simply heading off into remote mountain areas. One of the most beautiful areas is the Tusheti Mountains, in Georgia’s far northeast corner. This can be reached via a white-knuckle 4WD trip, through the Abano Pass, which is at an elevation of 2900 metres. The scenery is a jaw dropping mixture of snowy peaks, deep gorges and steep grassy hillsides, inhabited by cloud-like flocks of sheep. A familiar site of the Tusheti region is tall, fortified watchtowers, which served as sentries against invasions from the north. The people, who live in these remote mountainous areas of Georgia, when they are not working the land, are found busy toasting, feasting, drinking, eating and keeping their traditions alive.
The best photo opportunities in Georgia have to be in the cave cities, such as Vardzia. These are labyrinths worthy of a Tolkien novel, clinging on the side of steep cliff faces, built to offer shelter to the people from the Mongol onslaught. At Vardzia it is possible to climb through the tunnels and up staircases carved into the rock, plus there is even a natural spring to fill your water bottle. The caves at Uplistsikha are older and date back from the 1000 BC, which makes them one of the oldest places in the Caucasus Mountains.
Many people today might not be able to point out Georgia on a map; however this country at the very outer corner of Europe is very accessible (just a 6 hour flight from London). The stunning beauty of the region and the warmth of the people will definitely guarantee an unforgettable travel experience!
Image Details and Licenses: https://flic.kr/p/6XFSkK (Hans Zwitzer, CC BY-NC-SA 2.0), https://flic.kr/p/4sD2vx (Ilona Margalitadze, CC BY 2.0), https://flic.kr/p/dnbrGg (United Nations Development, CC BY-NC-SA 2.0), https://flic.kr/p/57W9Gi (Adam Harvey, CC BY 2.0), https://flic.kr/p/eE1QQo (James Emery, CC BY 2.0), https://flic.kr/p/aK3yGM (Carrie Kellenberger, CC BY 2.0), https://flic.kr/p/bKxV3H (Gabriella Opaz, CC BY-NC-ND 2.0), https://flic.kr/p/p1YyYd (Nick Grapsy, CC BY-NC-SA 2.0), https://flic.kr/p/8HApLk (Dan Perry, CC BY 2.0), https://flic.kr/p/oUNy4f (Richard, CC BY-NC 2.0),https://flic.kr/p/mEjwUV (Lorenzoclick, CC BY-NC 2.0) https://flic.kr/p/6ZLnYj (Hans Zwitzer CC by NC-SA-2.0) https://flic.kr/p/eN4kvC (orientalizing -CC by NC-ND-2.0)