One of my major Azorean adventures was spiritual, with Jorge Valerio, a 25-year-old dynamo who created and organized Holistika tours about two years ago with Lisa Moreira. They conducted small group tours of Sao Miguel with a maximum of nine people , which included a lot wellness activities such as reiki, yoga, massages, meditation, drumming, healing sounds and breathing exercises.
Valerio sensed my exhaustion and set a languid pace as we explored Sete Cidades, driving through empty villages full of people celebrating a Catholic holiday behind closed doors.
It was hot then cold, windy then calm, sunny then rainy — a four-season/otherworldly Azorean day.
“What I do is adapt to people,” said Valerio. “We don't have very good weather, so we have to adapt and not follow a line.” He told me all about this island history, religion and folklore and also shared his thoughts on tourism and tourists. Best part was when he had invited me to his concert at Gruta do Carvao cave, that night in Ponta Delgada, and an all-day “Exchange With Your Heart” music/art/dance/wellness event two days later at Terra Nostra Park in Furnas.
He later introduced me to Lupini beans, a snack usually eaten with beer, and took me for my first Azorean meal at a traditional buffet at Restaurante da Ferraria for slow-cooked Azorean meat and wine.
What we physically did, though, was go to the most magical place on Sao Miguel — Termas da Ferraria. This is actually a rocky pool in the ocean where you feel the incoming cold Atlantic water mixed with hot, thermal volcanic waters.
At low tide, the water is hot, shallow and calm. We came here during high tide, when the sea was rough. We had to cling to a rope strung across the pool when the waves rolled in, and the water was a startling mix of hot and cold water.
Valerio wants people on his tours to realize that anything is possible. Holistika’s motto is “Meet your own nature.” I haven’t pieced it together yet, but water, rocks and ropes seem to be sending me a message at this place.