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Golden Temple

A Local's Guide to Amritsar; unearthing the city's best kept secrets!

Amritsar-India
TE

| 8 mins read

by:Natasha Sharma


Amrit – Nectar and Sar – Pool, the city of Amritsar has derived its name from the holy tank that surrounds the venerated Golden Temple. Shrouded with stories of Independence and Partition (Jallianwala Bagh massacre and Wagah Border), the city today is defined by busy markets, narrow lanes, mouthwatering eateries and one of the most divine Sikh pilgrimage sites that is visited by people from all walks and religions.

Know the City

Amrit – Nectar and Sar – Pool, the city of Amritsar has derived its name from the holy tank that surrounds the venerated Golden Temple. Shrouded with stories of Independence and Partition, the city today is defined by busy markets, narrow lanes, mouthwatering eateries and one of the most divine Sikh pilgrimage sites that is visited by people from all walks and religions.

The round about, with the statue of Maharaja Ranjit Singh, at the Fuwwara Chowk

Here is a local travel guide that not only informs you about the most popular and interesting attractions, but also imparts local tips on the best places to eat and shop. Experience it all, and you too, like me, will fall in love with Amritsar; one visit will not just be enough!

Places to See

The Golden Temple

Located in the old part of the city, also called the walled city, the Golden Temple is the biggest draw for believers and tourists alike. A symbol of love and brotherhood, the temple is home to Sri Guru Granth Sahib, the holy scripture of the Sikhs, which was first installed here on August 16, 1604 A.D.

The Harimandir Sahib is open 24 hours, so you can do the darshan (pay your respects) any time. However, at around 10pm at night the Guru Granth Sahib is taken out ceremoniously from the inner sanctorum to a room to sleep. This custom is really nice to watch, and one can even give kandhha (shoulder) to the palki (carriage) that carries the Guru Granth Sahib. If you don’t wish to miss this, then go early so that you can walk around to see the complex, and sit and listen to the Shabd kirtan (devotional chants) to absorb the calming vibes of the temple. There is also a corresponding morning ceremony at 4am when the Granth Sahib is woken up and installed.

Golden Temple

When you enter the temple premises, before visiting the centre shrine, you can ask where you can buy some parshaad to make an offering to the Guru. Once offered, the priests will give you some of the parshaad back in a leaf container in case you want to carry it back. If you wish to take some for your family members back home (outside Amritsar), tell them you want the parshaad for travel, and they give a packed pinni packet which lasts. This is in addition to parshaad that they will give you in any case on your way out.

You can also pick up kadhaa's (steel or iron bracelet) outside at the shops; they are available in all sizes for men, women and kids.

Note: Dress modestly. You will need to cover your head and half arms to enter the premises; women can use a dupatta. If you forget to carry one, there are many headscarves kept outside the temple in a basket.

Jallianwala Bagh (walking distance from the Golden Temple)

Jallianwala Bagh

This bagh (garden) was a mute witness to the Amritsar massacre of more than a 1000 people who were shot at the orders of Colonel Dyer. While the approach to the Bagh remains the same narrow passage, the garden has been expanded to make it a tourist attraction, unfortunately taking away from the authentic feel of the place. Yet, the bullet marks on the walls, the well at the premises and the in-house museum will give you a fair idea about why 13th April 1919 was marked as a black page in Indian History.

Wagah Border

Flag Down Ceremony at Wagah Border

The village of Attari, about a 30-40-minute drive from Amritsar houses the Indian check post that borders with Pakistan. The evening flag down ceremony attracts huge crowds, so make sure you reach well in time to secure yourself a spot as well as imbibe the strong wave of patriotism that runs through the crowds. The ceremony starts usually at 4:30 pm in winters and 5:30 pm in summers and is quite a treat to watch, with aggressive posturing by armed forces on both sides of the border.

Food, Glorious Food!! Say Goodbye to Dieting!

If you are a true foodie and have a weakness for North Indian cuisine, then Amritsar is just the place for you!

Street Food

There is of course the delicious Golden Temple langar you must eat at, where piping hot food is served round the clock. Within the walled city, the two most famous dhabas are the Bharawan da dhaba and the Kesar da dhaba. While I would prefer the food and location at Bharawan da dhaba, the mango pickle at Kesar da dhaba itself warrants a visit. Compliment them well, and you will be rewarded with a generous packet to carry home!

The best places to eat are scattered around town, and they all are easily accessible. Make it a point to try out the following if you are in the Lawrence Road area:

- Paneer pakoras at Novelty.

- Fruit cream near Novelty - must have!

- Puri aloo at Kanahaiya/Kanha sweets

- Kanha chocolate halwa. Kids love it.

- Kachodi and gudh halwa at Munim di Hatti.

- Lassi at Munim; the main cneter is in the old city though, called Gian di lassi.

- Jalebi's and Gulab Jamun at Sharma's halwai in the lane by the side of Munim on Lawrence road.

- Tandoori Chicken from Surjit Chicken opposite Novelty on Lawrence Road

- Amritsari Fried fish near the chicken place

- Makhhan fish on Majitha road which is outstanding (not on main Lawrence road). Any local cab driver will know where to take you.

- Beere ka chicken on Majitha road. (Hole in the wall place so ask your cab driver to get it to the hotel if you can).

- Amritsari stuffed kulchas . This is an absolute MUST to eat since you are unlikely to get an equivalent of these kulchas anywhere. Make your way to the “chungi" (essentially a crossroad) on Maqbool Road. The hawker's stock sells out extremely fast; so it may be a good idea to have the kulchas for brunch at 11:30am. Since this a roadside affair, it would be best to sit in the car and eat. Another popular place is Kulcha Land which is not roadside, but very good as well.


Things to Buy

Hall Bazaar

Punjabi juttis - "Raunak juttis" shop outside the main Hall Bazaar gate (this is one of the main gates to the old part of the city). You should stop here when you are towards the older part of the city. The shop has the softer leather jutties, and stocks the better-quality stuff  on the first floor of the shop. Any cab driver will know this famous store.

Phulkari and Baag dupattas - Again, these are best bought in the old city. My personal favourite were Gopal Exclusive and Gullu Exclusive in Katra Jaimal Singh market.

Aloo papad and punjabi vadhi's - This shop is on Lawrence road near the BBK DAV college for girls and close to Arora stationery shop.It also has yummy channa masala - DPS brand.

Aam Papad Next to the shop mentioned above is an old man under a peepal tree (yes that is his official address!) who sells Aam Papad and stuff. He also has a shop right across the road. Go to either but ask for where the owner is sitting. You can try all his products and buy the ones you like. Amazing stuff! He also does a double whammy where he spices up the aam papad with lemon and masalas if you want to try that kind of thing. And as he will gleefully tell you in true Punjabi humour, there is a charitable dispensary behind him, just in case!!!

Mithai from Bansal Sweets - Motichoor ladoos, Pinni at Bansal Sweets are great to carry back for yourselves. The patisa here is delicious too. This is just little further down from the aloo papad store.

Travelling to Amritsar for the first time? Be prepared to be mesmerised by its alluring charms; the city’s historical and religious attractions, and it's mouthwatering food as well!


Natasha Sharma is a children's books' author who grew up in Amritsar. As per her, Amritsar is an incredibly welcoming city with the most lip-smacking food. Her insider's guide will keep your tummy stuffed, your wallet light and she promises you will leave with new-found calm.

All Images © tourHQ