Although an ancient city by way of Xenophon’s Anabasis, modern day Gyumri really started life with the arrival of the Russians in the early 19^th century. First, it figured as a base town for troops joining the frontline skirmishes in the Russo-Turkish wars; then it boomed with the arrival of the imperial railway. It’s this period that gave the city its architectural style, while subsequent decades have not been so kind; Gyumri was ravaged by a disastrous earthquake back in 1988 and the town has been reconstructing itself ever since.

In the heart of the town sits the Main square; cafes crowd the sidewalks, stately fountains beautify the government offices, the church and cathedral are visited by friendly locals and visitors alike, and enticing exhibitions of museums like the Hovhannes Shiraz house and the Mher Mkrtchyan centre beckon from the side streets. On the outskirts of the town, the still-in-use Black Fortress allows a look from afar, while the Mother Armenia statue nearby is a good spot to garner panoramic views of the city. There are also some fascinating monasteries lurking in the backcountry here, like the Marmashen Monastery, which can be easily accessed by marshrutka bus from the middle of the city under the able guidance of a Gyumri tour guide.