Enfolded into its own little enclave of greenery by the Gjerë Mountains of southern Albania, Gjirokaster is a web of narrow lanes, charming cottages and rough-brick municipal buildings that exude Ottoman charm and earthiness from every crack, crevice and pore.

Given its authentic veneer, it’s hardly surprising that it forms one of Albania’s few UNESCO centres, hailed as one of the country’s last remaining examples of an original bucolic farming settlement. That means plenty of immersion between the Old Bazaar, the classic frontispieces of the traditional eastern homes (topped by the iconic Zekate House on the hill), the crumbling façades of the Turkish-style Hamams, and of course, the formidable bulwarks of rocky Gjirokaster Castle high above.

But history aside, this Albanian backcountry town also boasts a charming sleepy vibe, and visitors looking to glimpse the age old traditions of life here should head over to the Old Bazaar where their Gjirokaster tour guide can give them tips about the best places to settle in with a gritty Turkish coffee, or a plate of homemade qifqi in the company of locals.