Plagued by brutal civil wars and political instability, cross-border conflicts with Ethiopia and accusations of grave human rights abuses since the bungled implementation of its constitution in the late 1990s, Eritrea is still struggling to find its feet. Travel is difficult here no question. Intrepid types who do decide to come will have to vie with a particularly demanding visa system and get permits to adventure into the backcountry, while heading to the militarised border zone to the south-east is never a good idea.

So what’s the good news? Well, there’s the verdant old growth rainforests of Filfil Solomona, inhabited by rare East African monkeys, and the sinewy ridges of Gash-Barka, where dik-diks and leopards, crocs and olive baboons all thrive in the largely untouched wilds. Deserts in the eastern fringes of the country give way to the sparkling waters of the Red Sea, while Eritrea tour guides will often recommend making a trip out to the virtually unknown Dahlak Islands, where pearly-white beaches are peppered with anthropomorphic boulders and ringed with coral reefs.